Climbing to Mount Fuji’s Summit (3,776m) – Through Wind and Rain

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Summit – 3776m.a.s.l. (12,338ft)

Climbing Season – July-September

Time of year climbed – July

Duration – 2 Days

Difficulty

Rating: 2.5 out of 5.

Mount Fuji, Japan’s sacred mountain. One of the most iconic mountains in the world. And a big non-negotiable on the itinerary for the Japan trip.

Having landed in Tokyo and spent a few days there, the time had finally come to lace up the hiking boots and tackle Fuji. I booked a guide with Fuji Mountain Guides beforehand to make life a little easier with organising the mountain hut accommodation. The mountain huts book up well in advance and generally bookings are made over the phone, so bare this in mind if you want to climb solo and over 2 days.

Day One

We met up with the guides and our fellow climbers at Tochomae station in Tokyo and boarded a bus headed for Subashiri 5th Station at around 2,000m. From there we began our 1,400m climb for the day along the Yoshida trail.

The trail was quiet and the big group we set off in soon began to thin out with people having different paces. The mountain and its path provided just about as stark a contrast to the bright lights and hustle and bustle of Tokyo as you can imagine. No neon lights and crowds out here. No sunshine either though.

The moody overcast sky for much of the day provided a welcome break from Tokyo’s July heat and humidity. But eventually those clouds burst, and with strong winds, it was raining sideways… just like being back in Manchester.

View of Fuji early on on the trail
A view of Fuji early on on the trail
Signing showing the way to the summit
Fuji up ahead
Rubber ducks on a bench, just before the rain started
Three ducks randomly on a bench on the trail. An ominous sign for the weather ahead.

The last hour or so of the first day’s climb was difficult. The trail gets increasingly steep as you climb and the headwind we were facing was pushing us back down the mountain. On several occasions we were stopped in our tracks as we braced until the gusts had slightly calmed, before moving forward again. Every trudging step forward was exacerbated by sliding back half a step in the scree… it turned into a bit of battle and felt a lot like Fuji was f****** with us.

Eventually after 6 hours we made it to the mountain hut and settled in for the night as the weather got worse and worse. The mountain hut was comfy and relaxing, a good shelter from the storm. We were served up curry, from what looked like cat food pouches. It actually tasted pretty good, although the heavy smell of it clung in the air and sent a few people, who were slightly ill from the altitude, running to the toilets. Ironically not toilets you’d want to run to for relief from a bad smell.

During the night several hikers turned up at the hut looking worse for wear, and were turned away, back into the weather to look for somewhere else. They hadn’t pre-booked any accommodation and unfortunately most places were full.

Day Two

The night was cold and sleep is always a challenge when you’re at an altitude you’re not really acclimatised to. The plan was to set off at 2:30am to catch sunrise from the summit, but with the weather as bad as it was, this was a no-go. Instead, we had a lie-in until 4am, at which point the bad weather had started to ease off. There weren’t too many complaints in the hut about the extra sleep and the views we got from there were absolutely stunning.

Then off to the summit we headed. The final stretch. The bad weather had now cleared and we were greeted by clear blue skies and a warm sun. After just over an hour, we arrived at the summit. And it was well worth the journey. Spectacular views all around, from the incredible crater rim to looking out over Japan, seemingly still asleep under a blanket of cloud.

Sunrise from the mountain hut
The Summit
On the Summit
The Crater
The summit crater

The journey back down on the scree slopes was tough but pretty manageable, and pretty quick too. A pair of hiking poles makes a big difference when descending on the scree. Your knees will definitely thank you! Arriving back at the bottom of the trail, we climbed back on the bus to head back to Tokyo, tired, happy, and with a great sense of achievement, but Fuji wasn’t done with us yet.

Arriving back at Tochomae station we got lost in the absolute labyrinth of a station there. An extra 45 minutes of walking around confused and frustrated that we definitely didn’t want or need. Last laugh Fuji, I guess.

8 Top Tips for Climbing Fuji

Here are my top 8 tips for climbing and successfully summiting Mount Fuji.

  • Train beforehand. You don’t have to be especially fit to summit, but the fitter you are the easier and more enjoyable you will find the climb.
  • Don’t underestimate the altitude. If you’re coming from Tokyo, you’re going from 40m to 3776m in 24 hours. The body can’t adapt to altitude anywhere near that quick. So, take it slow! And avoid getting yourself out of breath whilst climbing. In through your nose and slowly out through your mouth.
  • For similar reasons as above, I’d recommend going for the 2-day summit over the 1-day. Give yourself the extra time and make the trek more enjoyable
  • Make sure your accommodation is sorted beforehand. It gets booked up well in advance and people are turned away at night
  • Take lots of spare change. The toilets at the huts are pay to use. Taking around 10,000JPY in general is a good idea as you will also be able to buy drinks along the way, which can help you travel a little lighter.
  • Use trekking poles to help with the scree descent. You can buy wooden sticks to trek with and get them branded/stamped at various stops along the route. Makes for a great souvenir! These sticks can be cut down for a small fee at the end of your climb, so they’ll fit in your suitcase. So make sure to get the stamps only on the top half!
  • It gets cold, very cold, even in summer. Make sure you have plenty of layers you can take on and off as needed and a good waterproof shell in case the heavens open.
  • Don’t forget the Sunscreen! UV radiation is much stronger at high altitudes and if the clouds clear, and the layers come off in the warmth, you could soon be looking like a lobster.

Climbing Gear List

  • 25-30l Backpack with rain cover
  • Warm hat
  • Sun hat
  • Buff
  • Sunglasses
  • Head torch
  • Thermal base Layer
  • Moisture wicking layer
  • Warm insulating layer/s
  • Waterproof Shell Jacket
  • Hiking trousers
  • Waterproof trousers
  • Hiking Boots
  • Wool socks
  • Liner Socks
  • Gloves
  • Hiking Poles
  • Sunscreen

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